Kahk-tivating Egypt: A Dip into the Sweet History of Egypt’s Favorite Eid Biscuits
Let's dive into the joyous celebrations of Eid al-Fitr in Egypt, that come at the end of the holy month of Ramadan. A time of fasting, worship, and charitable giving. Ramadan brings families and communities together to break bread and share in the spirit of the season. The festivities are marked by dazzling decorations, traditional lanterns, and handmade ornaments that decorate buildings and streets across the country.
A Fanoos stand (traditional Ramadan Lantern) in Cairo.
For many Egyptians, the highlight of Eid al-Fitr is the beloved treat known as Kahk, a crumbly shortbread biscuit that comes in countless variations. While some prefer their Kahk plain, others like it with fillings. Regardless of the preference, the agreed-upon traits for good Kahk are that it should be slightly crumbly, melt-in-your-mouth, and not too sweet. What sets Kahk apart from other cookies and biscuits is that it's made with yeast instead of baking powder or soda.
Different types of Kahk ready to be baked, in Abu Sir, Egypt.
It is said that Kahk dates back to Ancient Egypt. Yep, it's true! Back then, they used to stamp the biscuits with the symbol of the Sun God. And when Christianity came along, people started stamping them with the cross. Fast forward to when Islam arrived in Egypt, and the rulers were savvy enough to use Kahk to win over the hearts and minds of the people. They would give out huge quantities of Kahk to the masses, often with political messages stamped on them. Some even had gold coins inside! While Kahk is now mostly associated with Eid el-Fitr, it's actually a staple of many celebrations across the country. You will find Kahk at Christmas, as well as during wedding celebrations regardless of religion.
Eid preparations start during the month of Ramadan, with families and friends coming together to bake and share Kahk. It's a cherished tradition that brings people together and spreads joy during this special time of year. So whether you're enjoying the patterned Kahk in Cairo or savoring a unique version in another part of Egypt, the love and care put into making this treat is a testament to the spirit of Eid al-Fitr and the warmth and hospitality of its people.
Women of Nawaya NGO gathering singing some traditional songs before baking Kahk.
Outside of Cairo, Kahk comes in all shapes and sizes. Some are like thin donuts, shaped into rings, and others are left irregular, making each one unique. Traditionally, Kahk would be filled with date paste, but over time, other fillings like Malban (Turkish Delight), Agameya (a cooked honey, spice, and nut paste), and mixed nuts became quite popular, and some might say even more popular. When it comes to decorating Kahk, the mainstream way is to use a tool called a Mon’ash (pronounced: mun-ash). It's a wide-tipped and textured tweezer used to pinch shapes into the dough. It's a time-consuming and labor-intensive process, but it's a great way to show those you love how much you care.
While many pastry shops and bakeries will start selling Kahk at the beginning of Ramadan, families will start baking their own biscuits about two weeks before Eid. And when they do, it's always a community affair. Women from each family gather with their mothers, grandmothers, aunts, and cousins for a day of baking. And they're not alone – neighbors are often invited to join in on the fun too. Kids get to help shape and decorate the dough, while the adults tell stories, reminisce about old times, and share jokes and laughs. It's a time of celebration and togetherness, complete with singing, dancing, and drumming.
When it comes to Kahk, there's often friendly competition between families to see who can bake the best batch. Women take pride in their baking skills and like to keep tradition. And since it's a communal activity, they'll often work together to bake huge amounts of dough – sometimes up to 20kg (44lbs) or more! When the baking is done, families will gift Kahk to their neighbors, relatives, and friends, making sure everyone has enough to celebrate.
Patterned Kahk dusted with powdered sugar.
In 1968, there was a show on TV called al-Mesaharaty (pronounced:el-mesa-ha-raty). It was based on the traditional and seasonal job of the Mesaharaty, a man whose task during Ramadan is to wake his neighbors for the pre-dawn meal, Suhour. Many people like to have a small meal before sunrise, to keep them going throughout their fasting day, this meal is called Suhour, and the word Mesaharaty comes from the name of the meal!. You'd think the Mesaharaty would be the least popular person in the neighborhood for waking people up before the sun, but it’s actually the complete opposite. The Mesaharaty is a much-loved tradition still alive in the streets of Egypt today! So how does he wake up the whole street? By strolling down the block with his trusty drum and singing out everyone's name! Every episode of the show discussed a different topic about Egyptian society, and they were all sung in the style of the Mesaharaty. One episode spoke of the kahk-making traditions and showed just how much people love and appreciate making these sweet treats, as well as sharing them with family and friends. He sings:
“Mothers, daughters, aunts, ladies,
(sit) on a mountain of date paste, honey, and ghee.
As if (they were) a security council,
Staying up to the early morning hours,
Kneading and chatting,
Building a pyramid (of kahk).
My mother-in-law said:
“Oh kahk, oh generous one,
we will stop eating you in a million years.”.”
During the celebration of Eid in Egypt, Kahk is the star of the show, but it is often accompanied by its less famous sibling, Ghorayeba. Unlike Kahk, Ghorayeba is never stuffed with a filling, and it has a velvety, buttery texture that melts in your mouth. While Kahk has a crumbly biscuit-like texture, Ghorayeba is pure sweetness that coats your entire mouth.
In addition to Ghorayeba, there are other European-style biscuits that have made their way into the Eid celebration in Egypt. This is because in the mid-19th century, French chefs were invited to work at the Khedival palace. By the 20th century, their recipes had trickled down to Egyptian high society and eventually to the masses. For example, a cookbook from 1934 written by two Egyptian palace chefs featured many international recipes, including Petit Fours, Lancashire biscuits, and the much-loved French Sable.
Despite the influence of European cuisine, Kahk remains the head of the biscuit gang during Eid, with other traditional biscuits like Ghorayeba, Nashader, and Meneen following along. There is much more to say about the biscuits of Eid and the loving traditions that accompany them. If you ever get the chance to visit Egypt during Eid, make sure to try Kahk for yourself - it is a unique and delicious experience!
