Spice Shops & Herbal Havens: Where Flavors and Remedies Collide!

Step right into the enchanting realm of Egyptian spice and herb shops! Imagine shelves bursting with vibrant powders, the scent of aromatic incense wafting through the air, and an array of peculiar treasures displayed in countless glass jars. Welcome to the wacky, wonderful world of el-Attar, where flavors and remedies intertwine!

Step right into the enchanting realm of Egyptian spice and herb shops! Imagine shelves bursting with vibrant powders, the scent of aromatic incense wafting through the air, and an array of peculiar treasures displayed in countless glass jars. Welcome to the wacky, wonderful world of el-Attar, where flavors and remedies intertwine!

These quirky, old-timey shops can be found all over Egypt, from bustling city centers to quaint rural towns. They are not your ordinary spice shops, mind you—they are more like apothecaries. They serve as a hub for locals to explore and acquire herbs, spices, seeds, grains, oils, and more, all for the purpose of cooking as well as home remedies. Now, we know herbal remedies can be a touchy subject, but hey, our ancestors relied on them long before modern medicine came along, so there must be something to it, right?

An assortment of spices at a Attar shop.

We had the pleasure of sitting down with Ahmed Zalat, the proud owner of one of Cairo's oldest spice and herb shops. This gem has been around for over 120 years! Ahmed inherited his craft from his father, who inherited it from his father before him—a tradition that runs deep in this field. Ahmed's life has been devoted to the pursuit of healing through herbal remedies, spending countless hours studying the properties of herbs, spices, and other natural ingredients.

Ahmed Zalat, Herbalist, explains to us the ins and outs of the trade.

Ahmed shed light on the delicate nature of working with herbs. Did you know that certain materials can affect the potency of herbs? Some plants can only be ground using a marble mortar and pestle, while others demand the touch of brass. Some flowers and leaves must be harvested under the cover of darkness to avoid sunlight. Others are plucked during specific lunar phases, like the new or full moon. Each plant has its own set of rules, and mastering them requires a lifelong commitment and deep passion. While many spices are locally grown, some exotic ones that thrive in tropical climates are imported.

Egyptians have always had a profound love affair with spices. Let me share a little historical nugget with you: In the 17th century, a Western traveler visited Egypt and wrote in his memoirs  how taken aback he was by how generously and enthusiastically Egyptians seasoned their food. At the time, spices were expensive and hard to come by in Europe. But in Egypt, they were cheap and plentiful- so people had at it! Egyptians simply detest blandness and believe that a well-seasoned meal is the hallmark of a skilled cook. 

Ahmed Zalat’s shop near el-Azhar mosque in Historic Cairo

 Ahmed Zalat didn't stop at traditional herbalism—he took it up a notch! While many Attareen (that's the plural of Attar, the term for spice sellers) prefer to carry out their trade informally through word of mouth, Ahmed is all about sharing knowledge. Alongside concocting custom herbal cures and oil blends for common ailments, he has written and printed booklets that delve into medical issues prevalent in our communities. You name it—high blood pressure, kidney stones, asthma, diabetes—his booklets cover them all. And fear not, for the instructions on how to use these remedies are included as well. Paying a visit to Ahmed Zalat's shop near el Azhar mosque is an experience like no other. Most Attar shops don't offer professionally packaged remedies or informative booklets.

Home remedies are deeply ingrained in Egyptian culture! You don't need to be a certified herbal specialist to know a few tricks of the trade. Anise tea for a good night's sleep, guava leaf tea for cough relief, cumin tea to soothe a bloated stomach—these simple solutions are the go-to requests at Attar shops. Of course, it's perfectly normal to seek remedies for specific ailments too. The shop owner will gladly recommend a suitable remedy and provide instructions on how to use it correctly. And hey, don't limit yourself to health concerns—beauty-related issues have their remedies too! Feeling the effects of dull skin or fine lines? Grab some chickpea powder! Dealing with thinning hair? Castor oil to the rescue!

Remedies, creams, and oils at Ahmed Zalat’s Attar

Hibiscus tea is like a superstar remedy in Egyptian households. It's not only super tasty and enjoyed regardless of health concerns, but it's also known to help with high blood pressure. This tea, also called sorrel or roselle, is packed with antioxidants and anti-inflammatory goodness that does wonders for your overall health. But hold on a sec! If you do a quick Google search, you'll find that while hibiscus tea can slightly lower blood pressure, it's not a substitute for medication when it comes to hypertension. So, enjoy it for its flavor and health benefits, but don't skip your prescribed meds, okay?

Which brings us to something a bit eerie but fascinating: incense burning, known as Bukhoor in Arabic. Egyptians use incense in their homes to cleanse and keep away negative energy and spirits. It's tied to the belief in the "evil eye" or envy that can harm you. To protect themselves, people spread incense smoke all around their homes. But get this—it's not just any incense. They use a special kind made with ingredients from these cool spice shops called Attar shops. One ingredient you might come across is Ain el-Afreet (eye of the poltergeist), which is a red seed with a black "pupil." It's believed to kick out the evil eye and bad vibes. When you burn the incense, this little seed goes pop and it's a sign that the bad spirit is getting kicked to the curb!

You can smell the bukhoor at Ahmed Zalat’s shop from down the street!

You can actually make your own incense blend, lots of recipes out there, or you can buy it from a seller at a mosque or a spice shop. The "evil eye bukhoor" mix can have other ingredients like salt, Potassium alum, Mastic gum, Harmel (African Rue—extra potent for scaring off evil spirits), and even some blessings from a local sheikh. Bukhoor is used to ward off or attract different things. You've got blends to welcome wealth or good health into your home, and then there are blends that protect you from bad luck, demons, or family drama. It's like a magical aromatic world of its own!

We’d like to thank Ahmed Zalat for having us at his spectacular shop. Everything you could imagine and more await you there! It’s an experience you do not want to miss when on your next trip to Cairo! Make sure to swing by and say hello for us: 10 Sheikh Mohamed Abdo St. Near the main entrance of Azhar mosque.

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Kahk-tivating Egypt: A Dip into the Sweet History of Egypt’s Favorite Eid Biscuits

Let's dive into the joyous celebrations of Eid al-Fitr in Egypt, that come at the end of the holy month of Ramadan. A time of fasting, worship, and charitable giving. Ramadan brings families and communities together to break bread and share in the spirit of the season. The festivities are marked by dazzling decorations, traditional lanterns, and handmade ornaments that decorate buildings and streets across the country.

Women buy ramadan decorations at Fanoos stand

A Fanoos stand (traditional Ramadan Lantern) in Cairo.

For many Egyptians, the highlight of Eid al-Fitr is the beloved treat known as Kahk, a crumbly shortbread biscuit that comes in countless variations. While some prefer their Kahk plain, others like it with fillings. Regardless of the preference, the agreed-upon traits for good Kahk are that it should be slightly crumbly, melt-in-your-mouth, and not too sweet. What sets Kahk apart from other cookies and biscuits is that it's made with yeast instead of baking powder or soda.

Many trays of Kahk ready to be baked

Different types of Kahk ready to be baked, in Abu Sir, Egypt.

It is said that Kahk dates back to Ancient Egypt. Yep, it's true! Back then, they used to stamp the biscuits with the symbol of the Sun God. And when Christianity came along, people started stamping them with the cross. Fast forward to when Islam arrived in Egypt, and the rulers were savvy enough to use Kahk to win over the hearts and minds of the people. They would give out huge quantities of Kahk to the masses, often with political messages stamped on them. Some even had gold coins inside! While Kahk is now mostly associated with Eid el-Fitr, it's actually a staple of many celebrations across the country. You will find Kahk at Christmas, as well as during wedding celebrations regardless of religion.

Eid preparations start during the month of Ramadan, with families and friends coming together to bake and share Kahk. It's a cherished tradition that brings people together and spreads joy during this special time of year. So whether you're enjoying the patterned Kahk in Cairo or savoring a unique version in another part of Egypt, the love and care put into making this treat is a testament to the spirit of Eid al-Fitr and the warmth and hospitality of its people.

Four women sitting outdoors clapping and drumming

Women of Nawaya NGO gathering singing some traditional songs before baking Kahk.

Outside of Cairo, Kahk comes in all shapes and sizes. Some are like thin donuts, shaped into rings, and others are left irregular, making each one unique. Traditionally, Kahk would be filled with date paste, but over time, other fillings like Malban (Turkish Delight), Agameya (a cooked honey, spice, and nut paste), and mixed nuts became quite popular, and some might say even more popular. When it comes to decorating Kahk, the mainstream way is to use a tool called a Mon’ash (pronounced: mun-ash). It's a wide-tipped and textured tweezer used to pinch shapes into the dough. It's a time-consuming and labor-intensive process, but it's a great way to show those you love how much you care.

While many pastry shops and bakeries will start selling Kahk at the beginning of Ramadan, families will start baking their own biscuits about two weeks before Eid. And when they do, it's always a community affair. Women from each family gather with their mothers, grandmothers, aunts, and cousins for a day of baking. And they're not alone – neighbors are often invited to join in on the fun too. Kids get to help shape and decorate the dough, while the adults tell stories, reminisce about old times, and share jokes and laughs. It's a time of celebration and togetherness, complete with singing, dancing, and drumming.

When it comes to Kahk, there's often friendly competition between families to see who can bake the best batch. Women take pride in their baking skills and like to keep tradition. And since it's a communal activity, they'll often work together to bake huge amounts of dough – sometimes up to 20kg (44lbs) or more! When the baking is done, families will gift Kahk to their neighbors, relatives, and friends, making sure everyone has enough to celebrate.

Patterned Kahk dusted with powdered sugar.

In 1968, there was a show on TV called al-Mesaharaty (pronounced:el-mesa-ha-raty). It was based on the traditional and seasonal job of the Mesaharaty, a man whose task during Ramadan is to wake his neighbors for the pre-dawn meal, Suhour. Many people like to have a small meal before sunrise, to keep them going throughout their fasting day, this meal is called Suhour, and the word Mesaharaty comes from the name of the meal!. You'd think the Mesaharaty would be the least popular person in the neighborhood for waking people up before the sun, but it’s actually the complete opposite. The Mesaharaty is a much-loved tradition still alive in the streets of Egypt today! So how does he wake up the whole street? By strolling down the block with his trusty drum and singing out everyone's name! Every episode of the show discussed a different topic about Egyptian society, and they were all sung in the style of the Mesaharaty. One episode spoke of the kahk-making traditions and showed just how much people love and appreciate making these sweet treats, as well as sharing them with family and friends. He sings:

Mothers, daughters, aunts, ladies,
(sit) on a mountain of date paste, honey, and ghee. 
As if (they were) a security council,
Staying up to the early morning hours,
Kneading and chatting,
Building a pyramid (of kahk).
 
My mother-in-law said:
“Oh kahk, oh generous one,
we will stop eating you in a million years.”.
— al- Mesaharaty- Pyramid of Kahk

During the celebration of Eid in Egypt, Kahk is the star of the show, but it is often accompanied by its less famous sibling, Ghorayeba. Unlike Kahk, Ghorayeba is never stuffed with a filling, and it has a velvety, buttery texture that melts in your mouth. While Kahk has a crumbly biscuit-like texture, Ghorayeba is pure sweetness that coats your entire mouth.

In addition to Ghorayeba, there are other European-style biscuits that have made their way into the Eid celebration in Egypt. This is because in the mid-19th century, French chefs were invited to work at the Khedival palace. By the 20th century, their recipes had trickled down to Egyptian high society and eventually to the masses. For example, a cookbook from 1934 written by two Egyptian palace chefs featured many international recipes, including Petit Fours, Lancashire biscuits, and the much-loved French Sable.

Despite the influence of European cuisine, Kahk remains the head of the biscuit gang during Eid, with other traditional biscuits like Ghorayeba, Nashader, and Meneen following along. There is much more to say about the biscuits of Eid and the loving traditions that accompany them. If you ever get the chance to visit Egypt during Eid, make sure to try Kahk for yourself - it is a unique and delicious experience!

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The Egyptian Spring Festival You Didn’t Know Existed

Egyptians have been celebrating the coming of spring for centuries. Never heard of Sham el-Nessim? That’s ok, it’s a well-kept secret.

Egyptians have been celebrating the coming of spring for centuries. Never heard of Sham el-Nessim? That’s ok, it’s a well-kept secret.

Egyptians breathe a sigh of relief at the first signs of warm weather. We’re not built for the cold! The days get longer, the sun shines a little warmer, and crops come to life. We call this spring celebration “Sham el-Nessim”, (pronounced: shem-el-neh-seem) which is sometimes translated to “smelling the breeze”. Our ancient ancestors named the harvest season “shemu”. Interestingly, their harvest season is practically the same as ours today-April to August.  Could the word “Shemu” have morphed into “Sham el-Nessim”? Very likely! There are many Ancient Egyptian words that are still in use today. But the reality is, nobody knows for sure where the name “Sham el-Nessim” comes from. It has a long and complicated history- as most Egyptian things do!

Families picnic in gardens and play games during Sham el-Nessim.

Sham el-Nessim marks the start of the harvesting season, so celebrating it means to be hopeful and thankful for the harvest yet to come. Egypt has always been a farming nation with a special bond to the land, and we’ve been partying in honor of spring and the harvest for thousands of years! It’s a time of optimism, rebirth, and looking forward to a new fruitful year. Egyptians are particularly proud of Sham el-Nessim because it is exclusively ours. It is a holiday rooted in our land, and its traditions are not shared with any of our neighbors. 

Sham el-Nessim is always the Monday after Coptic Easter Sunday. Even though it’s linked to the Christian holiday, Sham el-Nessim is celebrated by all Egyptians. Rich, poor, Christian, Muslim, or Jewish- everybody wants to have a good time. Folks get together with their loved ones and head outdoors to enjoy the spring weather. Good food is the order of the day, so picnics are packed before bee-lining to public gardens. There’s no such thing as partying in Egypt without blaring music. And this should be expected when walking around Egypt’s public parks on Sham el-Nessim. Games are played, songs are sung, and delicious food is shared- it’s an all-round good time!

Vegetable seller preparing his lettuce and green onions for Spring festivities.

There are two essential parts of Sham el-Nessim foods, the greens and the fish. Without these two things, you’re not doing it right. The star of the show is the fish: Most popular of all is Feseekh (pronounced: fih-see-kh): a salted and fermented grey mullet. Feseekh is a controversial food, with staunch lovers and fierce haters. It is an acquired taste with an extremely pungent smell- hence the preference to eat outdoors. If not prepared well, Feseekh can cause botulism- so it’s super important to get your Feseekh from a well-known “Fasakhani” (pronounced: feh-sa-khani, a professional title given to those who make Feseekh).  When it comes to greens, it’s all about the (Romaine) lettuce and spring onions, both of which are native to Egypt. They aren’t cut up into a salad, they are served whole. It might seem weird to think of serving full lettuce leaves and entire stalks of spring onions next to plates full of salted, smoked and fermented fish. But it just works! Egyptian lettuce is crisp and sweet, and spring onions are mild and fragrant- paired with pungent fish it’s simply *chef’s kiss* -to die for.

Feseekh, the most controversial of the Sham el-Nessim foods.

Feseekh is often accompanied by “Ringa” (pronounced: ring-a) salted and smoked herring, and “Melouha” (pronounced: mel-oo-ha) salted mullet, and sardines. These fish are usually way too salty to be eaten directly, so it’s common for people to put them in different kinds of dips and salads as a way to dilute the flavour. And as with any meal in Egypt, Balady bread is always present!  

Balady bread is part of almost every Egyptian meal.

 The Egyptian word for small snacks is “Tasaly” (pronounced: tah-sal-ee) which means “snack that keeps you entertained”- all holidays in Egypt have “tasaly”. What are you supposed to do with your day off? Hang out with friends and family and snack all day! During Sham El Nessim, the snacks are “termis” (pronounced: tir-mis) lupini beans, “lib” roasted seeds of all kinds, sprouted fenugreek seeds, sprouted fava beans, candies and small chocolates. Unique to Sham ElNessim is “Malana” (pronounced: mel-lah-nah) which are green chickpeas sold by the branch.  “Malana” is very seasonal and can only be found during springtime. 

Spring is a great time to be here. If you time it just right, you might just catch a glimpse of this ancient holiday being celebrated in the gardens and farms of Egypt. But if you can’t make it, have your own Sham el-Nessim celebration in your backyard! Happy Sham el-Nessim to all!

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