Kahk-tivating Egypt: A Dip into the Sweet History of Egypt’s Favorite Eid Biscuits
Let's dive into the joyous celebrations of Eid al-Fitr in Egypt, that come at the end of the holy month of Ramadan. A time of fasting, worship, and charitable giving. Ramadan brings families and communities together to break bread and share in the spirit of the season. The festivities are marked by dazzling decorations, traditional lanterns, and handmade ornaments that decorate buildings and streets across the country.
A Fanoos stand (traditional Ramadan Lantern) in Cairo.
For many Egyptians, the highlight of Eid al-Fitr is the beloved treat known as Kahk, a crumbly shortbread biscuit that comes in countless variations. While some prefer their Kahk plain, others like it with fillings. Regardless of the preference, the agreed-upon traits for good Kahk are that it should be slightly crumbly, melt-in-your-mouth, and not too sweet. What sets Kahk apart from other cookies and biscuits is that it's made with yeast instead of baking powder or soda.
Different types of Kahk ready to be baked, in Abu Sir, Egypt.
It is said that Kahk dates back to Ancient Egypt. Yep, it's true! Back then, they used to stamp the biscuits with the symbol of the Sun God. And when Christianity came along, people started stamping them with the cross. Fast forward to when Islam arrived in Egypt, and the rulers were savvy enough to use Kahk to win over the hearts and minds of the people. They would give out huge quantities of Kahk to the masses, often with political messages stamped on them. Some even had gold coins inside! While Kahk is now mostly associated with Eid el-Fitr, it's actually a staple of many celebrations across the country. You will find Kahk at Christmas, as well as during wedding celebrations regardless of religion.
Eid preparations start during the month of Ramadan, with families and friends coming together to bake and share Kahk. It's a cherished tradition that brings people together and spreads joy during this special time of year. So whether you're enjoying the patterned Kahk in Cairo or savoring a unique version in another part of Egypt, the love and care put into making this treat is a testament to the spirit of Eid al-Fitr and the warmth and hospitality of its people.
Women of Nawaya NGO gathering singing some traditional songs before baking Kahk.
Outside of Cairo, Kahk comes in all shapes and sizes. Some are like thin donuts, shaped into rings, and others are left irregular, making each one unique. Traditionally, Kahk would be filled with date paste, but over time, other fillings like Malban (Turkish Delight), Agameya (a cooked honey, spice, and nut paste), and mixed nuts became quite popular, and some might say even more popular. When it comes to decorating Kahk, the mainstream way is to use a tool called a Mon’ash (pronounced: mun-ash). It's a wide-tipped and textured tweezer used to pinch shapes into the dough. It's a time-consuming and labor-intensive process, but it's a great way to show those you love how much you care.
While many pastry shops and bakeries will start selling Kahk at the beginning of Ramadan, families will start baking their own biscuits about two weeks before Eid. And when they do, it's always a community affair. Women from each family gather with their mothers, grandmothers, aunts, and cousins for a day of baking. And they're not alone – neighbors are often invited to join in on the fun too. Kids get to help shape and decorate the dough, while the adults tell stories, reminisce about old times, and share jokes and laughs. It's a time of celebration and togetherness, complete with singing, dancing, and drumming.
When it comes to Kahk, there's often friendly competition between families to see who can bake the best batch. Women take pride in their baking skills and like to keep tradition. And since it's a communal activity, they'll often work together to bake huge amounts of dough – sometimes up to 20kg (44lbs) or more! When the baking is done, families will gift Kahk to their neighbors, relatives, and friends, making sure everyone has enough to celebrate.
Patterned Kahk dusted with powdered sugar.
In 1968, there was a show on TV called al-Mesaharaty (pronounced:el-mesa-ha-raty). It was based on the traditional and seasonal job of the Mesaharaty, a man whose task during Ramadan is to wake his neighbors for the pre-dawn meal, Suhour. Many people like to have a small meal before sunrise, to keep them going throughout their fasting day, this meal is called Suhour, and the word Mesaharaty comes from the name of the meal!. You'd think the Mesaharaty would be the least popular person in the neighborhood for waking people up before the sun, but it’s actually the complete opposite. The Mesaharaty is a much-loved tradition still alive in the streets of Egypt today! So how does he wake up the whole street? By strolling down the block with his trusty drum and singing out everyone's name! Every episode of the show discussed a different topic about Egyptian society, and they were all sung in the style of the Mesaharaty. One episode spoke of the kahk-making traditions and showed just how much people love and appreciate making these sweet treats, as well as sharing them with family and friends. He sings:
“Mothers, daughters, aunts, ladies,
(sit) on a mountain of date paste, honey, and ghee.
As if (they were) a security council,
Staying up to the early morning hours,
Kneading and chatting,
Building a pyramid (of kahk).
My mother-in-law said:
“Oh kahk, oh generous one,
we will stop eating you in a million years.”.”
During the celebration of Eid in Egypt, Kahk is the star of the show, but it is often accompanied by its less famous sibling, Ghorayeba. Unlike Kahk, Ghorayeba is never stuffed with a filling, and it has a velvety, buttery texture that melts in your mouth. While Kahk has a crumbly biscuit-like texture, Ghorayeba is pure sweetness that coats your entire mouth.
In addition to Ghorayeba, there are other European-style biscuits that have made their way into the Eid celebration in Egypt. This is because in the mid-19th century, French chefs were invited to work at the Khedival palace. By the 20th century, their recipes had trickled down to Egyptian high society and eventually to the masses. For example, a cookbook from 1934 written by two Egyptian palace chefs featured many international recipes, including Petit Fours, Lancashire biscuits, and the much-loved French Sable.
Despite the influence of European cuisine, Kahk remains the head of the biscuit gang during Eid, with other traditional biscuits like Ghorayeba, Nashader, and Meneen following along. There is much more to say about the biscuits of Eid and the loving traditions that accompany them. If you ever get the chance to visit Egypt during Eid, make sure to try Kahk for yourself - it is a unique and delicious experience!
The Egyptian Spring Festival You Didn’t Know Existed
Egyptians have been celebrating the coming of spring for centuries. Never heard of Sham el-Nessim? That’s ok, it’s a well-kept secret.
Egyptians have been celebrating the coming of spring for centuries. Never heard of Sham el-Nessim? That’s ok, it’s a well-kept secret.
Egyptians breathe a sigh of relief at the first signs of warm weather. We’re not built for the cold! The days get longer, the sun shines a little warmer, and crops come to life. We call this spring celebration “Sham el-Nessim”, (pronounced: shem-el-neh-seem) which is sometimes translated to “smelling the breeze”. Our ancient ancestors named the harvest season “shemu”. Interestingly, their harvest season is practically the same as ours today-April to August. Could the word “Shemu” have morphed into “Sham el-Nessim”? Very likely! There are many Ancient Egyptian words that are still in use today. But the reality is, nobody knows for sure where the name “Sham el-Nessim” comes from. It has a long and complicated history- as most Egyptian things do!
Families picnic in gardens and play games during Sham el-Nessim.
Sham el-Nessim marks the start of the harvesting season, so celebrating it means to be hopeful and thankful for the harvest yet to come. Egypt has always been a farming nation with a special bond to the land, and we’ve been partying in honor of spring and the harvest for thousands of years! It’s a time of optimism, rebirth, and looking forward to a new fruitful year. Egyptians are particularly proud of Sham el-Nessim because it is exclusively ours. It is a holiday rooted in our land, and its traditions are not shared with any of our neighbors.
Sham el-Nessim is always the Monday after Coptic Easter Sunday. Even though it’s linked to the Christian holiday, Sham el-Nessim is celebrated by all Egyptians. Rich, poor, Christian, Muslim, or Jewish- everybody wants to have a good time. Folks get together with their loved ones and head outdoors to enjoy the spring weather. Good food is the order of the day, so picnics are packed before bee-lining to public gardens. There’s no such thing as partying in Egypt without blaring music. And this should be expected when walking around Egypt’s public parks on Sham el-Nessim. Games are played, songs are sung, and delicious food is shared- it’s an all-round good time!
Vegetable seller preparing his lettuce and green onions for Spring festivities.
There are two essential parts of Sham el-Nessim foods, the greens and the fish. Without these two things, you’re not doing it right. The star of the show is the fish: Most popular of all is Feseekh (pronounced: fih-see-kh): a salted and fermented grey mullet. Feseekh is a controversial food, with staunch lovers and fierce haters. It is an acquired taste with an extremely pungent smell- hence the preference to eat outdoors. If not prepared well, Feseekh can cause botulism- so it’s super important to get your Feseekh from a well-known “Fasakhani” (pronounced: feh-sa-khani, a professional title given to those who make Feseekh). When it comes to greens, it’s all about the (Romaine) lettuce and spring onions, both of which are native to Egypt. They aren’t cut up into a salad, they are served whole. It might seem weird to think of serving full lettuce leaves and entire stalks of spring onions next to plates full of salted, smoked and fermented fish. But it just works! Egyptian lettuce is crisp and sweet, and spring onions are mild and fragrant- paired with pungent fish it’s simply *chef’s kiss* -to die for.
Feseekh, the most controversial of the Sham el-Nessim foods.
Feseekh is often accompanied by “Ringa” (pronounced: ring-a) salted and smoked herring, and “Melouha” (pronounced: mel-oo-ha) salted mullet, and sardines. These fish are usually way too salty to be eaten directly, so it’s common for people to put them in different kinds of dips and salads as a way to dilute the flavour. And as with any meal in Egypt, Balady bread is always present!
Balady bread is part of almost every Egyptian meal.
The Egyptian word for small snacks is “Tasaly” (pronounced: tah-sal-ee) which means “snack that keeps you entertained”- all holidays in Egypt have “tasaly”. What are you supposed to do with your day off? Hang out with friends and family and snack all day! During Sham El Nessim, the snacks are “termis” (pronounced: tir-mis) lupini beans, “lib” roasted seeds of all kinds, sprouted fenugreek seeds, sprouted fava beans, candies and small chocolates. Unique to Sham ElNessim is “Malana” (pronounced: mel-lah-nah) which are green chickpeas sold by the branch. “Malana” is very seasonal and can only be found during springtime.
Spring is a great time to be here. If you time it just right, you might just catch a glimpse of this ancient holiday being celebrated in the gardens and farms of Egypt. But if you can’t make it, have your own Sham el-Nessim celebration in your backyard! Happy Sham el-Nessim to all!
